Switzerland might well be considered my second home on my travel map, just after Kyoto. It’s a place I can set off to with almost no preparation. Despite this familiarity, there remain pieces of this land yet to be assembled in my personal puzzle—such as several cities in the Italian-speaking region, and the Rhine Falls which I’m about to describe.
The Rhine Falls is Europe’s largest waterfall, though on a global scale, it ranks only as medium-sized. Having experienced the magnificent Niagara Falls in America last summer (2024), where I got thoroughly soaked, this visit would be more of a relaxed, minor experience. A few months before departure, I spotted a half-day tour from Zurich on Klook that didn’t take much time and wasn’t expensive. Since it was also a landmark I hadn’t visited before, I booked it without hesitation.
I chose to depart on the afternoon of my second day in Zurich. The weather was cold and rainy. Although I’ve been to Switzerland many times, this was only my second stay in Zurich, merely to fill time before my flight back to Taiwan. From my guesthouse near the train station, I walked about 20 minutes to reach the bus meeting point.
For those unfamiliar with Klook, I should explain: the itineraries or packages listed on Klook are almost all products offered in collaboration with local travel agencies. After booking, you receive a confirmation email from Klook detailing where to meet, which guide to look for, or how to redeem your ticket. Last year in America, I used this method to book attractions like the New York CityPASS and a DC day tour—all without issues and thoroughly enjoyable experiences.
The tour I booked was “Rhine Falls & Stein am Rhein Half-Day Tour,” operated by Best of Switzerland Tours. Upon spotting their counter, I presented my booking confirmation to the staff, who gave me a cloth sticker to place on my clothing for easy identification by the guide, and pointed me toward a bus, indicating I could board.
The Swiss approach their work with the same precision as the Japanese. As I approached the bus, the guide verified my identity before allowing me to board. This lady, dressed in a bright red coat with beautiful silver hair, was clearly experienced, with a warm smile, fluent English, and an excellent service attitude.
After driving on the highway for a while, I dozed while listening to her narrate Swiss history, occasionally hearing other travelers in the front rows asking questions. Eventually, the bus exited the highway into plains where dormant grapevines could be seen. There was no snow, and in the gloomy weather, the grasslands and nearby hilltops appeared yellowish and lifeless.
There was a small detour. The guide deliberately had the driver pass through a small town called Marthalen, where all buildings featured half-timbered construction. The experienced driver slowed down so we could admire these charming structures. Speaking of “half-timbered,” it’s one of the few English terms I’m unsure how to translate appropriately into Chinese (typically translated as “half-exposed wood”), but you’ll understand when you see the photos.
After passing Marthalen, we quickly went through Schaffhausen, another major Swiss city I had never visited. This area is close to Germany, so many architectural styles show this influence, markedly different from traditional Swiss farmhouses.
Soon, the bus stopped in a parking lot, and our red-coated guide instructed us to disembark to begin our first attraction—the Rhine Falls. Our group of about 20 people shivered in the near-freezing wind while she arranged our tickets.
There are two ways to view the Rhine Falls: from the south bank at Schloss Laufen (Laufen Castle) or from the north bank’s viewing platform. The north bank platform is free and also has boat docks and scenic restaurants. Our tour took the south route through Laufen Castle.
The earliest records of Laufen Castle date back to 858 AD, named after the Baron of Laufen who lived there. It is now property of the Zurich government. The visitable area of the castle isn’t large, so after a quick tour, I followed the group to take the elevator down to the waterfall viewing platform.
Frankly, halfway through, the Rhine Falls hadn’t impressed me much. I was thinking about my first European backpacking trip in 1997, when I took a Rhine cruise from Cologne, Germany—my first close encounter with the Rhine. It was late June then, supposedly summer, but I remember still wearing a thick cotton coat and shivering on the boat. This time it was winter, and equally cold.
From the middle viewing platform, I finally saw the Rhine Falls itself—delicate and compact. Perhaps due to the season, the water volume wasn’t as abundant as in spring or summer?
The “Stone Viewing Platform” with the Swiss flag in the middle—I believe you need to take a ferry to reach it?
Continuing downward through a tunnel, we reached the lowest viewing platform where one can get close enough to touch the waterfall. Here, I finally appreciated the true power of the Rhine Falls.
The guide gave us about 40 minutes, which was adequate for a thorough visit. After lingering for a while, I headed back up, choosing to walk rather than take the elevator as we had done on the way down.
Before returning to the parking lot, I browsed the souvenir shop briefly and bought a small duck. Since buying my first Queen Elizabeth duck in England in 2023, followed by a Statue of Liberty duck in New York last year, buying a duck in Switzerland has become another of my souvenir-collecting habits.
Our next stop was the historic town of Stein am Rhein.
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Half Day Tour to Rhine Falls and Stein am Rhein from Zurich on Klook